Alessandro Vigilante first places the Nova Cas women in the fortress and then place them on the beach. Given his background as a dancer, it’s no surprise.
“It’s all good times to be with good people, dancing, not taking things very seriously,” the designer said. “Modern dressings mean not following trends.”
Even though the series was inspired by one of the legendary balls of the 20th century (Soirée hosted by Hélène Rochas), the lighter look, perhaps because Vigilante finally gave herself more freedom.
Even so, archival references are spread all over cocoon-shaped, round sleeves, solid shoulders and square necklines, glittering lace, lurex, silk, silk, satin and wool. The collection brings together around the swans, a nod to the 1934 Marcel Rochas-designed bird dress, which was Hélène’s apartment’s favorite folding screen from the Art Deco era and of course her socialite. Some seem to push the metaphor to the extreme, such as a chocolate jacket with black “furry feathers” sleeves and black and white flats with yellow dots of beak.
But the best effect here is more subtle. Vigilante knows how to cut a sharp coat – simple and white, drop lapels or like a chocolate-packed golden jacquard, he has a way of color and texture. With some parsing, the collection offers some real-world options, such as sharp pants or hourglass dresses. For the bolder dresser there, a pencil skirt with curved ruffle jazz, though some of the pieces may not have as many feathers.
A thriving without a too subtle thrill is a matchbook theme: its flame suggests relate fall collections to images of the brand’s latest perfume, a fruity greenery called Audace. This smell also re-examines the glory of the past, hitting the 70s and redefining it as a new generation. It is worth noting that Rochas perfume sold about $45 million last year, but it remains the smallest brand in Interparfums’ nearly $100 million portfolio. Obviously, the opportunity is there. But if a brand and its designers and their designers, if they want to really partner, they will have to go beyond their history.
