It is easy to mistake them for whiteheads: small, light bumps appear overnight, gathering on the eyes, cheeks, or nose. But before you pick up the tweezers or squeeze them (bad!), listen – a slight breakout or whitehead can actually be Miria, which is a completely different skin problem that won’t respond to the acne you used to treat on-site acne and absolutely won’t squeeze.
“Milia is a tiny cyst sitting below the surface of the skin,” Dr. Emmaline Ashley, a cosmetic physician and education director who acquired aesthetics. “They are filled with a protein called keratin, which is usually found in your hair, nails, and the outer layers of your skin.” Milia manifests itself as a pearly white bump. However, they are not inflammatory and contagious, or even out of reach with acne.
Whitehead, on the other hand, is an acne lesion caused by clogged pores filled with sebum, dead skin and bacteria. “But Milia is firmer, deeper, and will not be easily extracted like whiteheads,” Dr. Ashley warned.
What causes Miria?
Our skin is not only a protective barrier. This is a living respiratory organ that is renewed monthly. As part of this natural cycle, dead skin cells mean to shed off the surface, making room for fresh, healthy skin below. But sometimes, the process does not meet the plan, leading to Milia.
These tiny pearl lumps form when dead skin cells and keratin are trapped under the surface instead of exfoliating as they should. They usually appear around the eyes and cheeks, delicate areas of thinner skin, making them easier to build up.
“Clinically, Milia is smooth, dome-shaped, and feels firm,” said Dr. Ashley. “Unlike whiteheads, they don’t have ‘heads’, they are not red or inflamed and usually don’t soft or painful unless they are irritated.”
According to Hussein Yassine, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of the clinic for Skin Experts, Milia is often found in newborns and adults with dry or damaged skin and can be triggered by a number of factors, one of which is the use of occlusion ingredients or a very thick moisturizing formula, which is caused by disrupting natural flaking.
“Many people think petroleum jelly like Vaseline is a moisturizer, which is not,” he explained. “Don’t forget to use mineral oils, lanolin, beeswax, paraffin and other rich in natural oils, as well as cocoa and shea butter.” Even ingredients like xyleneone, commonly found in makeup, can cause traffic congestion when over-layered. Overuse of rich eye creams, inability to remove makeup properly or rely on heat, humid climate occlusion products can also form perfect conditions for Miria.
