Rainmaker’s signature is its ability to incorporate Japanese clothing touch points (i.e., kimono contours) into modern clothing. This season, designer Kohichi Watanabe has focused more explicitly on transcontinental dialogue and is based on the interaction between Japanese aesthetics and Western elements.
Watanabe tries to blend some of these qualities together – seeing a white cotton shirt wrapped around the front like a karate gi, soft grey suede cover and wool coat, which curls gracefully on weapons, such as often Japanese clothing. Like his past few series, the majestic technical jacket stole the show – he used Polartec Fleece to create capes, put on the jacket and blow out the sleeves, bringing them to the gorpcore samurai vibe.
It tracks the rainmakers in Kyoto. The former Japanese capital may not have Tokyo’s global fashion influence, but it is generally considered to have a more refined and understated taste level than its massive successor, and it retains more of the old Japanese history. The same goes for Wotanbe’s clothes. Although traditional Japanese costumes stood out to a large extent after World War II (now people usually wear and kimonos only on special occasions, such as weddings, funerals, or traveling to theaters), designers consistently re-enhancing their spirits in a convincing and contemporary way.
His blanket-like coat, blurred vest and Uber-Sleek tailor have a spreading appeal. It almost doesn’t matter whether Rainmaker’s customers will wear it on the streets of Ginza, Brooklyn, or East London; the series looks just as great on Mars.
