Medina-Cleghorn says there are many ways to use chemical exfoliators. The most common products tend to use acid toner, masks and powders. She recommends using one exfoliator for each routine. Too much can damage the skin disorder, she said.
Then, Idriss said looking for a skin-like exfoliating acid that best suits your skin type. For example, oily, acne-prone skin will benefit from chemical exfoliators that will eliminate pores and reduce sebum. Those with dull skin will want to find something that can enhance collagen and brighten the complexion. Sensitive skin requires gentle exfoliators that do not cause irritation. The most common ones are:
α-hydroxy acid
Once you remove the initial dead skin, the acid can further perfect the surface and treat pores, and if your skin is not responsive, it is recommended to apply serum of acid pricks after mechanical peeling. Among the overwhelming acids on the market, she prefers water-soluble alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAS), which easily open the upper layer of the skin (which produces a peeling effect), thus helping to fade tinted spots, even faint spots, even rough or bumpy spots. Michelle Henry, MD, said those with sensitive skin would want to use mild AHA like lactic acid to get the same exfoliation benefits in a gentler way, saying that those with sensitive skin would want to use mild AHA, such as lactic acid to get the same exfoliation benefits in a gentler way. Mattioli prefers Mandel acid, she considers it a “unsung hero” because it is larger in molecular size than other AHAs, so it doesn’t absorb as quickly (and a good thing if your skin is sensitive). Naturium’s new Mandelic topical acid 12% pairs this acid with nicotinamide for skin disorders to prevent dryness. For more intense treatment or mature skin tone, glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight of all AHAs, so it penetrates the deepest collagen and can build collagen in addition to improving texture and tone. Mattioli started with low doses, such as Krave Beauty’s Kale-Lalu-Yaha treatment-like carbonate content of 5.25% and gradually increased intensity. Idris likes to recommend Normal 7% glycolic acid For beginners, it’s light and easy to fit into the routine. She also advised herself Dr. Adris’s big glitter mask.
β-hydroxy acid
Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAS) are oil-solvent and penetrate deeper into pores than AHA to remove excess debris and sebum. Mattioli likes azoic acid, such as a regular suspension of sulfuric acid 10%, because its high molecular weight effectively kills bacteria while also reducing redness and swelling, making it enough to treat acne and rosacea.
Oily and acne-prone skin can often handle stronger chemical exfoliators and use them more frequently, Henry said. This includes salicylic acid, Mattioli says, which can penetrate deep into the pores to unravel any congestion, even skin tone, and smooth the surface. Paula’s choice of 2% BHA liquid exfoliant is specifically followed in skin care waste. She said Dallas and New York City-based beautician Joanna Czech, loyal to the cult-based creature recherche p50, “has multiple advantages,” she said, including a gentle P50W with salicylic acid, “so you can adapt to your sensitivity and skin condition accordingly.”
If your skin is combined, Henry recommends a balanced approach with gentle chemical peeling and occasional physical keratin.
aha/bha fusion
A more simplified chemical exfoliation choice is to combine acids in a multitasking formula. She said. Carlos A. Charles, MD, a Manhattan dermatologist and the founder of Derma di Colore, a medical practice that focuses on a range of different skin tones, who also recently cofounded 456, a brand that’s specifically designed for skin of color, points to his To Be Clear Exfoliant Mask, with glycolic and salicylic acid, plus probiotics to firm and clear up skin.
